We’ve all been there…looked in the mirror and realised that perhaps the top we are wearing used to be a bit looser or those jeans used to do up easier. Dogs can’t do that. No dog will go “No, I will not eat that treat, I’m watching my weight”. So, it’s our job to do this for them.

Does my bum look big in this?

Credit: www.vetconm.com/how-to-tell-if-your-dog-is-too-fat-or-too-thin/

Of course the chart above is a general ideal weight, some breeds may vary from the ideal to a certain extent. But, in reality they should adhere to the rule above, you should feel the ribs without having to search or press too hard. 

In the salon I sometimes see podgy pooches, all breeds and all ages. Often it isn’t something the owner has noticed. This does not make you a bad owner, it does not mean you don’t look after your beloved pooch, it just means you’ve loved him a little too much 😉
Why does it matter?

On a health level, it matters hugely. Overweight animals suffer in much the same way as humans. From reduced life expectancy to wear and tear on joints, if your dog is overweight, they’ll be suffering in some way.

On a grooming level it has a huge effect on the skin and the coat. Overweight dogs have more coat, not just because there is more body for it to cover but because the coat thickens. The level of shedding increases massively, this is obviously something house proud owners notice! Shedding those extra pounds will help Fido reduce the shedding of those pesky hairs.
The skin is less healthy, scurfy, dry, and as a result the coat will also lack shine. 

What can you do?
Sit down and have a think about hat you’re doing currently, walking routines, diet, treats, and see what needs to change. 

Walking.
ALL breeds need walks. It is commonly thought that small dogs need less exercise, this could not be less true in many cases they need more. My little Cocker Spaniel will walk and run for miles where’s my Labrador us happier with a few shorter, gentle strolls spaced throughout the day.

If you’re really keen you could also try doggy sports such as agility, flyball or even heel work to music! There are many local groups for these just pop in a Google search!

Feeding.
The majority of dry and wet dog food is relatively poor nutritionally. Bakers, in particular, is full of e-numbers and has been compared to feeding your pooch McDonald’s every day. Why not do some research to find the perfect food for your pooch? Click the link to find out more: http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/

Treats.
The same rule applies to treats as it does to food; the brighter the colours of the treats, the more artificial it is!
Raw carrot is one of the best things for podgy pups, it’s filling but doesn’t add bulk to their bellies.

If you’re still worried, have a chat with your vet (just remember the food they recommend will likely be a brand that sponsors them so it’s worth doing some research first) or a doggy nutritionist. 

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One of my Springers was recently bitten by an adder, it was hiding in the long grass and whilst enjoying a stroll she must have stepped on it. I didn’t see the Adder, but noticed her limping and acting a little strangely. A little later, her mouth had become swollen, her eyes were red and puffy and were swelling rapidly and she was lethargic and grumpy. On closer inspection, I saw a raised red lump and assumed it was a sting. After a quick trip to the vets, I was informed it was most likely an Adder bite which caused her discomfort. An injection for the pain and a course of anti histamines later and she is fighting fit. Phew. But do you know some of the most common signs to look for?

Here they are:

  
If you notice any of these signs seek veterinary attention quickly. Carry your dog (rather than allow her to walk) to try and reduce the spread of venom around their body. Bathe the wound in cold water to help control the swelling and keep your dog quiet and warm as you transport her to the vets surgery.

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The summer sunshine is when we love to spend more time outdoors. Our gardens are particularly beautiful at this time of year. But, spare a thought for your precious pooch because many of the plants we adore can be harmful to our dogs. Puppies are especially in danger because like human babies, they like to explore with their mouths. Here’s the plants to keep a particular eye out for…

  
Stay safe,

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Did you know that your dog could be suffering from Hayfever just like you? Hayfever symptoms in dogs are most likely to develop when your pooch is between 1 and 3 years old.

Does your dog excessively scratch or bite their body?

Have they started to lick or bite their paws?

Are they rubbing their faces on the furniture or the floor or shaking their heads more than usual?

If your dog has any of these symptoms they are likely to be suffering from hayfever.

Dogs with hayfever are often very itchy all over their bodies. As a result, they are likely to be scratching and biting their bodies more frequently than normal. They might also develop a rash that breaks out on the dog’s face, feet and tummy. Over time, the hair over the dog’s eyes and on his feet may actually begin to thin because he’s scratched so much or chewed his feet so often. In the case of a severe allergy your dogs skin might become inflamed, cracked or even bleed – this could lead to potential skin infections developing and requires immediate vet treatment. They might also lick their paws excessively, shake their heads and rub their faces on the floor or furniture. Dogs with hayfever may also have watery eyes, runny noses and they may sneeze, but these symptoms are less common in dogs although they are probably more familiar to human hayfever sufferers! 

These hayfever symptoms begin from April onwards as dogs are particularly sensitive to tree pollen, which is about much earlier than grass pollen and the early days of spring are when we usually see this.

How to Help a Dog with Hayfever

A variety of methods can be used to help your dog feel better when his hayfever flares up. They include:

• Administering oral or topical medications as recommended by your vet
• Wipe your dog down with a damp towel after they’ve been out in the grass – this helps to remove the pollen trapped in their coat. Bathing them in cool water can also help. 
• Brush the coat daily and carefully comb out any matted hair which can hold dirt and debris, from which bacteria can enter the skin causing bacterial skin infections.
• Keep your dog indoors at times when pollen counts are at their highest
• Run an air conditioner overnight to filter pollen out of your home environment
• Soak your dog’s feet in a bath of Oatmeal or aloe Vera shampoo and water to relieve his itchy skin after he’s been on the grass—rinse his feet completely before letting your dog out of the tub!
• Apply THORNIT powder to their paws, outer ears or any particularly itchy areas – follow the product instructions for applying the powder and do not allow you dog to lick any area that has been treated with the powder.
• Wash your dog’s bedding weekly with hot water and dry it in a tumble dryer rather than hanging outside. Make sure the bedding is completely dry before returning them to your dog
• Try adding Omega 3 and 6 fatty acid supplements, such as fish oils and flax seed oil or evening primrose oil to your dogs diet. This can help to address problems by ensuring the skin and coat are in tip top health.

Remember that if you suspect your dog may be suffering from an allergy, such as hayfever, always seek veterinary advice. Identification of allergies can be achieved by trial (such as a month on hypo-allergenic food, or avoiding certain walks where particular plants are prevalent), or by testing. Patch testing and blood testing can both allow identification of allergies, such as those involving weed or tree pollens, or indoor allergens such as dust mites, and moulds.
Treatment can also involve antihistamine and anti-inflammatory medication to try to make dogs comfortable, and sometimes affected dogs need antibiotics to control skin infections that develop as a consequence of allergic skin disease.
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Since dog’s nails grow in a curve, allowing them to get too long will cause the “toes” to splay or twist when the dog walks. This can be very uncomfortable and can ultimately lead to broken or permanently disfigured toes and feet. Regular nail clipping can prevent this, as well as reduce the risk of torn nails. It can also save on wear and tear of your floors and carpeting.  

How often?

Nails should be checked and clipped approximately every 2-4 weeks. They are probably too long if you can hear them “click” as your dog walks across the floor.  

How to get started?  
There are two styles of nail clippers made just for pets. Either style is acceptable as long as you are comfortable with how it feels in your hands, you have a clear line of sight to exactly where the blade is cutting, and the clipper has a sharp blade on it. Keep a jar of styptic powder handy to stop the bleeding in case you accidentally clip the vein. 

Where to clip?
If your puppy has white nails, you can see the pink vein through the nail. Clip off the tip of the nail, but not so much as to clip the vein. If your puppy has black nails, you will need to clip off a little at a time, looking at the nail tip straight on after each clip. When you start seeing a pale oval in the tip, it means you are near the vein and should stop clipping. If you keep the nails clipped on a regular basis, you will notice a hook at the end of a thicker part of the nail. The hook portion is what can be clipped off. Don’t forget to clip the dew claws if your dog has them!  

Remember to start slow
In the beginning, let your puppy sniff the clipper, hear the sound it makes, and feel it against the paw and nail before you start clipping. If you get just one nail done, that’s a success! When you’re just starting out, it may take a week or longer to do all four paws. Keep the sessions positive and reward your puppy with lots of treats and praise while you’re clipping.

Remember nail trimming is included in all of Paws of Par’s grooming packages and forms part of the Puppy Package. We also offer a nail clipping service on it’s own for nail trimming between grooms. So, if you don’t want to trim you’re pups nails yourself, book with us and let us do it for you from just £5.

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With all of the hot weather heatstroke can be a real worry. But knowing what to look out for and how to treat it might just save your best friends life!

Symptoms:

• Excessive panting
• Hyperventilation
• Increased salivation
• Dry gums that become pale, grayish and tacky
• Rapid or erratic pulse
• Weakness
• Confusion
• Inattention
• Vomiting
• Diarrhoea
• Possible rectal bleeding

If the dog continues to overheat, breathing efforts become slowed or absent, and finally, seizures or coma can occur.

How to treat:

1.  Get into the shade. If you think your dog is suffering from heatstroke, move it into a shaded area and out of direct sunlight. Apply cool water to the inner thighs and stomach of the dog, where there’s a higher concentration of relatively superficial, large blood vessels. Apply cool water to the foot pads, as well.
2.  Use running water. A faucet or hose is the best way to wet down your dog’s body. Never submerge your dog in water, such as in a pool or tub – this could cool the dog too rapidly, leading to further complications, including cardiac arrest and bloating.
3. Use cool – not cold – water. Many people make the mistake of using cold water or ice to cool the dog. Using ice or extremely cold water is dangerous and could cause the blood vessels to constrict, which slows blood flow, thus slowing the cooling process.
4. Don’t cover the dog. One of the keys to successfully cooling your dog is ensuring the water being placed on the dog can evaporate. Never cover an overheated dog with a wet towel or blanket. This inhibits evaporation and creates a sauna effect around your dog’s body. Likewise, don’t wet the dog down and put it into an enclosed area, such as a kennel. Any air flow during the cooling process is helpful in reducing the dog’s body temperature.
5. Sitting with the wet dog in a running car with the air conditioner blowing is an ideal cooling situation. Keep the dog moving. It’s important to try to encourage your dog to stand or walk slowly as it cools down. This is because the circulating blood tends to pool in certain areas if the dog is lying down, thus preventing the cooled blood from circulating back to the core.
6. Allow the dog to drink small amounts of water. Cooling the dog is the first priority. Hydration is the next. Don’t allow the dog to gulp water. Instead, offer small amounts of water that’s cool, but not cold. If the dog drinks too much water too rapidly, it could lead to vomiting or bloat.
7. Avoid giving human performance drinks. Performance beverages designed for humans are not recommended because they are not formulated with the canine’s physiology in mind. If you can’t get an overheated dog to drink water, try offering chicken- or beef-based broths.
8. See a veterinarian

Once your dog’s temperature begins to drop, cease the cooling efforts and bring the dog to a vet as soon as possible. Your dog’s temperature should be allowed to slowly return to normal once cooling has begun. A dog that’s cooled too quickly may become hypothermic.

Even if your dog appears to be fully recovered, the veterinarian needs to check to determine if the heatstroke caused any damage to your dog’s kidneys and liver. The effects of heatstroke can continue for 48-72 hours longer, even if your dog appears normal.

Taken from:

http://agilitynet.co.uk/health/heatstrokesurvivalguide_robertnewman.html

Often, inquisitive dogs will get a bee sting on their face which, while often looking comical, can be a painful and sometimes life-threatening. Multiple stings, getting stung in the mouth or throat, is especially dangerous.

1. Remove the stinger. Use your fingernail or a rigid piece of cardboard to force the stinger out. If it’s at all possible, avoid using tweezers or forceps because pinching the stinger can force more venom into your pup.

2. Ease the pain. A weak mixture of water and baking soda applied to the affected area can help reduce pain. Applying an ice pack wrapped in a towel can also help alleviate pain and swelling. Before giving your dog any antihistamines, you should consult your vet.

3. Watch for a reaction: Some dogs are allergic to bee and wasp stings. Allergic reactions can be fatal, so be on the lookout for symptoms like general weakness, difficulty breathing, or swelling away from the sting site. If any of these symptoms occur, call your vet and let them know your dog’s situation and that you’re on your way.

4. Go to the vet. If your dog is exhibiting symptoms of an allergic reaction, has been stung multiple times, or has been stung in the mouth or throat, you should also take them to the vet immediately.

While it’s impossible to keep bees and wasps from flying into backyards, you can help prevent future stings by doing things like keeping dogs away from flower beds where bees love to collect pollen and nectar. Check the eaves around your home to ensure you are not unknowingly playing host to bee hives and wasp nests. If you install wasp traps, make sure they are hung high enough so that pets and children cannot reach them.

Finally, make sure to check your pets’ water bowls regularly. Bees and wasps can drown in the water, but their stingers can still do damage to a dog that decides the bug would be a tasty snack!

  
Article taken from: 

Read more at http://blog.theanimalrescuesite.com/dog-stung-by-bee/#7PG4TWOMWT6QoQKL.99

Does your dog constantly scratch or rub his ears or shake his head excessively?
Does your dog suffer from sore or inflamed ears?

One of the most common causes is ear mites or an ear infection.

If your dog is suffering from sore, smelly, or itchy ears – Try THORNIT EAR POWDER for fast relief.
There are no antibiotics in THORNIT, so it can be used in perfect safety.

EASY TO APPLY – no discomfort for your dog

A pinch of powder is applied to cotton wool using the end of a small spoon.

Lightly dust the cotton wool around the inner ear avoiding the ear hole. Gently massage it in with your fingers from the outside.

Relief can often come with the first dose, but the treatment should continue for 1-5 days.

Helps with other skin problems

Can be used on dogs, cats and rabbits

OTHER USES FOR THORNIT:

Ears, and General Body Itching
Dust some Thornit lightly onto the skin. If animal has long hair, part the hair with a comb, feeding a trickle of Thornit to exposed skin. A Little powder goes a long way.

Anus Itching

If the animal pulls it’s bottom on the floor, and it is not gland trouble, then try applying a tiny amount of Vaseline to finger of glove and dip into the Thornit powder. Apply to just under tail where necessary.

Itchy Paws

Your Dog might be licking their paw excessively. Then they tear out the fur, and finally nibble until there are open sores. Treatment – Hold the paw in a plastic bag containing a small amount of Thornit. Work powder between claws, into pads and a little way up the leg.

For all treatments only a very small amount of Thornit is needed per dose. You can but it online.

Please remember – if you suspect your dog might have any kind of infection whether in the ear or elsewhere, ALWAYS seek veterinary advice.

Paws of Par 

Why not come along and support Par in their record breaking Cream Tea event. The event is taking place tomorrow; Sunday 7th June at 1pm on the Events Field next to the Par Running Track (just across the road from Paws of Par!). Everyone who comes along and takes part will enjoy a FREE cream tea!

But don’t let your pooches miss out either! I will be there and if you come and say hi to me you will be able to collect a FREE little goodie bag containing some tasty treats and a money off voucher to use at Paws of Par. So come and support the local community tomorrow if you can!!

I’m looking forward to seeing all of my 2 and 4 legged friends tomorrow

Paws of Par